Travelling Fletchers

My writing has slowed down.

Not because we aren’t doing anything.

Quite the opposite.

The truth is there are only so many ruined castles and waterfalls I can tell you about before they all start to blur together. We’ve even reached the point where someone spots another waterfall and the response is, “Oh… another waterfall.”

That probably sounds ungrateful, but it really isn’t.

Everywhere we have been has been stunning. Every bend in the road seems to reveal another view that makes you stop and stare. We’ve watched sunsets that last for hours, driven roads that disappear into the mountains and stood on beaches that look like they belong in another country.

We know how lucky we are to be here, and we’re grateful for every mile.

Perhaps that’s why the writing has slowed down. We’ve stopped trying to fit everything into words and have simply started enjoying where we are.

Today, however, was a little different.
If there’s one thing we’ve learned from driving the NC500, it’s this – if you value your life, take it slow.

Today we travelled via Applecross, over the Bealach na Bà. The name translates as Pass of the Cattle, and it certainly isn’t a road for anyone in a hurry. With its steep gradients, tight hairpin bends and single-track sections, it’s one of the most challenging roads in Britain.

Our average speed was between 20 and 25 mph, although it felt much closer to 80. Every bend revealed another climb, another drop or another oncoming vehicle that left us hoping there was a passing place nearby.

It is, however, the one time we’ve wished we had a smaller motorhome.

For the rest of the trip we’ve loved the extra space. But on the Bealach na Bà every extra inch of length seemed to matter. You find yourself checking the mirrors constantly, edging past oncoming traffic and breathing a sigh of relief every time you reach a passing place.

Unfortunately, David missed almost all of it.

While the rest of us were admiring the mountains, the valleys and the incredible views, he was doing the sensible thing and concentrating on the road. I dared not comment on just how beautiful the scenery was. It didn’t seem the right moment to distract the driver when there was a steep drop on one side and a hairpin bend on the other!

By the time we reached the campsite, it had been a long day behind the wheel.

After we’d stopped at the shop, I suggested we could head out and explore a little more.

The suggestion was met with a resounding sigh.

The general feeling in the motorhome was that we’d seen quite enough road for one day. All anyone wanted to do was park up and not move again until tomorrow.

Normally I’d say, “Put the kettle on,” but we’ve been without one all week. Instead, it’s been a case of filling a saucepan, waiting for it to boil and pretending that’s just as convenient. After tackling the Bealach na Bà, though, even that felt like too much effort!

Some days are about ticking off another attraction. Today wasn’t one of those days.
Today was about the journey itself – and what a journey it was.

Today really felt like we were heading into the wild north-west of Scotland.

As we travelled along the main A-road, cattle grids became a regular feature. Every few miles there seemed to be another one. It’s one of those little things that reminds you you’ve reached a very different part of the country. Instead of miles of fencing, the cattle grids allow sheep and cattle to roam freely while the traffic carries on.

Most of the roads were single track too. It soon becomes second nature to keep an eye out for passing places and to give a friendly wave as other drivers let you through. Everyone seems to have the same attitude – take your time, be patient and enjoy the journey. Out here, the road is as much a part of the adventure as the destination.

And then there were the views. Around almost every bend was another reason to slow down. Mountains, lochs, rugged cliffs and empty beaches appeared one after another. We found ourselves saying “wow” more times than we could count. No photograph quite captures the scale of it. It’s one of those places you simply have to experience for yourself.

Our route today took us to Ardmair, where we pitched up for the night and made the most of the sunshine. Yes, sunshine and warmth really do go together in Scotland! The temperature reached a very pleasant 22C, making it the perfect excuse to sit outside, relax and enjoy the view.

As the evening drew in, we settled back and watched the sunset through the motorhome window. As I’m writing this in July, the sun doesn’t set until around 10.30pm, and even then the display wasn’t over. For the next hour the sky changed from pink to purple and then to deep orange before the colours finally faded. I think I was fast asleep long before nature had finished putting on its show.

I did wake briefly during the night and was amazed to find it wasn’t properly dark. Instead, everything was bathed in a soft twilight that lasted until dawn. Living in an area with so much light pollution, it was a strange experience. Even without streetlights, I could make out more of the landscape than I often can at home. It was peaceful, calm and a lovely way to end another day on the NC500.

Miles covered today: 90
NC500 completed so far: Approximately 355 of 516 miles.

After nearly a week on the NC500, today was a very different kind of day.

We only had about 20 minutes to drive from one campsite to the next. On roads like these, you don’t have much choice but to take it slowly anyway!

The morning started off fairly dry, so we made the most of it with a trip to the beach for Monty. It turned out to be the highlight of his day.

Schnoodles have a very particular way of running when they’re excited. They tuck their back legs up, bounce along, spin around and, I’m convinced, grin from ear to ear. Monty did exactly that. He dug holes without anyone telling him off, raced in and out of the sea, then barked at the waves as they disappeared again, as if they were playing a game with him. Watching him having so much fun was an absolute joy.

When it was time to leave, the rain arrived, almost as if Mother Nature was saying, “Right then, time to move on.”

For the first time this week, the heavens really opened. It wasn’t just a shower. It was a proper downpour.

We parked up overlooking the beach and did something we hadn’t really done all week – absolutely nothing. We read, watched a film, dozed off and simply listened to the rain drumming on the roof of the motorhome. I think Mother Nature needed it, but if I’m honest, so did we.

A couple of hours later the rain eased. We looked outside and started laughing. For the first time since we’d arrived, we realised we could actually see our campsite. Until then it had been hidden behind the curtain of rain and low cloud. It felt as though someone had quietly lifted the stage curtain to reveal the view we’d been missing.

Halladale Inn Campsite has been one of my favourite stops of the trip so far. It’s a small site, but it has everything you need. The toilets and showers are spotless, there’s a laundry room and an on-site bar and bistro.

We didn’t need the laundry, but we certainly made good use of the rest of the facilities. We’d booked ahead, although in truth we probably didn’t need to as the campsite wasn’t full.

The bistro, however, was a different story. It was busy all evening, with plenty of people coming from outside the campsite just to eat there. That tells you everything you need to know. The food was outstanding. Maybe it tasted even better after a week of our motorhome one-pot meals, but honestly it was delicious.

If I ever find myself travelling this way again, I already know Halladale Inn Campsite will be on my list of places to stay.

After a week of living in the motorhome, I thought I’d share a few thoughts.

It’s amazing how quickly it starts to feel like home. We’ve found a routine that works, everyone knows where things live, and setting up and packing away has become much quicker.

We’ve learnt a few things along the way too.

Over the past 20 years we’ve owned several caravans, so it’s been interesting comparing the two. Both have their advantages. One thing we never experienced when towing a caravan, though, was hearing every rattle and squeak from inside while driving. In a motorhome, you’re travelling with your entire kitchen and living room behind you, and it can be surprisingly noisy! In fact, we’re planning to buy a screwdriver so we can give a few screws a quick tighten each morning before we set off.

I do think our years of camping, first in tents and then with caravans, have given us a practical, problem-solving attitude. That’s rubbed off on the kids too. You quickly learn that there’s usually a simple solution if you think about it.

It’s amazing how much quieter the journey becomes when you wrap a towel around the glass cooker lid. And yes, you really can cook dinner for four people in a single frying pan with no oven or grill. It’s all part of the adventure, and somehow everything tastes better at the end of the day anyway.

A slower day wasn’t what we’d planned when we set off on this adventure, but sometimes they’re the days you need the most. Time to rest, recharge and appreciate where you are before setting off again tomorrow.

Today my hat proved its worth again.

Yesterday it kept out the rain. Today it was a sunhat.

Temperatures hit 22°C with strong UV under clear skies, so it’s now officially done both jobs.

Rain hat – tick.

Sun hat – tick.

We stopped at Dunrobin Castle and explored the gardens overlooking the sea.

The castle looks like a fairytale, and the falconry display was a highlight – watching the birds fly so close was incredible.

Charlie also bought a Highland coo, so we now have a mascot – but no name yet.

Coco or Caramel? Or something better?

Next, we visited Carn Liath Broch, an Iron Age structure with cleverly layered walls and passages. Amazing to see what people built without modern tools.

Then we carried on to Wick, with sunshine, my trusty hat and our nameless coo.

100 miles down. 416 to go.

We have now completed around 56 miles of the NC500 – Inverness to Golspie.

Today started with David going for a walk and getting pooed on by a gull.

He was sitting between both kids at the time, so we think the gulls had a little chat beforehand.

One said, “Target practice.”

The other said, “Mine, mine, mine!”

Apparently, being pooed on by a gull is supposed to be good luck.

And luckily for us, our next stop has a laundry but we’ll have to wait until tomorrow for that!

Next, we took a trip out to Lairg. A pretty little village set beside Little Loch Shin and known as the Crossroads of the North.

From here, we went to the Falls of Shin, where we were lucky enough to watch the salmon jumping.

I found myself cheering them on like it was a sport.

Every time one didn’t quite make it, I encouraged it to give it another go.

Then David explained the life cycle of a salmon to me.

They are swimming upstream to spawn and, for most of them, this is the final journey of their lives.

I wasn’t sure whether I should shout encouragement any more or not.

Charlie managed to get a superb photo of a salmon leaping.

And my newly purchased hat kept the rain out of my eyes.

So lucky on that account too!

After David’s encounter with the gull and then seeing the salmon jumping, we went back to the campsite feeling very lucky.

Perhaps there really is something in this gull poo business after all.

A much better start to the day as we all woke up having had a much better night’s sleep.

On our first night, we had set the beds up at the back of the van as two singles and pulled the bed down from the ceiling.

There, David and I tried to sleep on a bed not much bigger than a single – a small double, if you will. The sides then had to be zipped up for safety, making for a very cosy bed that wobbled every time one of us moved.

And, somehow, every time the kids moved in the back too. And the dog!

We weren’t exactly rocked to sleep.
So, last night, we rearranged the sleeping arrangements and made a super-duper king-size bed at the back. Three of us slept there and Cam took the roof bed.

This worked much better for us and we all slept so much better.

That, or we were simply so tired from the first night that we could have slept anywhere.

Our first stop today was Culloden Battlefield – the site of the final major battle fought on British soil.

On 16 April 1746, the Jacobite army, led by Bonnie Prince Charlie, faced the government army led by the Duke of Cumberland.

The battle lasted less than an hour and ended in a devastating defeat for the Jacobites. Around 1,500 Jacobite soldiers were killed, many of them Highlanders.
The defeat marked the end of the Jacobite rising and led to major changes in Highland life and culture.

Now, for yous English – yes, I added the “s” the way the Scots do – if you have National Trust membership, you can use your card in Scotland too!

Which is exactly what we did.

Charlie had also decided that she wanted to visit an honesty box while we were in Scotland. She found one and picked up a couple of cakes.

When in Rome (or Scotland) and all that.

We also stopped for a few essentials – a hat and some motorhome levelling blocks.

One to replace the hat I had forgotten at home. The other to stop us rolling out of bed.

Both equally important.

From there, we went and sat alongside the firth, looking out across the water.

We were hoping to spot some dolphins but, alas, there were none today.

We did have a rather blustery walk alongside the firth before heading off to tonight’s campsite.

No dolphins – but history, cake, a lot of fresh air and, most importantly, a decent night’s sleep.

We started the day with an issue with the van.

We appreciate that the help desk has reduced hours and fewer staff on a Sunday, but in the end it was far easier for us to return to where we had hired the van.

Unfortunately, this meant we lost half a day.

We were keen to catch up, so once everything was sorted, we got back on the road and headed to Leven.

We stopped for lunch at the Leven Kitchen, overlooking the loch, where we met David’s aunt and cousin.

As they live so far away, we don’t get many opportunities to see them. So, as we were passing…

It would have been rude not to!

From there, we travelled on to our campsite at Culloden – through the rain and changing countryside.

Very Scottish.

So Day 2 gave us a return of van, a half-day delay, a family catch-up and plenty of rain.

Not exactly the plan.

But then again, if everything went smoothly, there wouldn’t be much to write about.

We left home at 8.30 this morning to catch the train from Milton Keynes.

All the bags were in the taxi.

All the people were in the taxi.

The dog was in the taxi.

My hat was not.

This was not just any hat. It had been carefully chosen because it doubles as both a rainhat AND a sunhat.
A very important bit of kit for Scotland.

And I had left it proudly sitting outside our house on the lawn.

Thankfully, we managed to contact our neighbour and ask them to rescue it.

We caught the train to Crewe and then changed for Edinburgh.

Nothing much to report from the train journey – which is probably a good thing.

Once in Edinburgh, we stopped at a pub to order some food.

As we had Monty with us, we chose to sit outside.

However, because of the licensing laws, Charlie was not allowed to sit outside as she is under 18.

The dog was very welcome.

The child was not.

So we all had to go inside.

We then picked up the motorhome and travelled to our first campsite at Linwater.

And now we are tackling the usual motorhome aerobics.

Trying to put a duvet cover on a super king-size duvet.

In a very small space.

The NC500 adventure has officially begun. 🚐🐾

Tomorrow we are off again.

This time we are heading north to take on the NC500.

David turned 50 this year and, when asked what he wanted to do to celebrate, this was his choice.

So tomorrow the adventure begins.

We will pick up the train from Milton Keynes to Edinburgh. From there, we collect our motorhome and set off on the road.

We do have rucksacks.

We also have the dog.

And, because we are heading to Scotland, we have midge spray and head nets.

Just us, a motorhome, Monty and the Scottish Highlands.

What could possibly go wrong? 🚐🐾🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿