Rest, Fjords and the Charm of Gamle Stavanger

The next two days were set aside for rest and a little sightseeing.

To start with, I made sure I didn’t stiffen up from our hike by doing a mix of pilates, yoga and tai chi. To the trained eye, though, it probably looked more like me flailing my arms about than anything graceful. Either way, it worked. I’d packed my essential pilates spikey ball and was so glad I had. A quick foot massage wasn’t pure relief but it definitely helped and set me up for the day.

One of the perks of staying here was the canoes by the cabin, perfect for a gentle paddle on the lake. We took one out, dipping the paddles slowly as the water rippled around us. All the work was in the shoulders and a rest bite for our legs – a steady rhythm that gave us new views of the mountains while still feeling peaceful and unhurried.

Afterwards I decided to have a swim in the fjord. The water was bizarrely cold and warm at the same time – a strange mix that left me feeling refreshed and wide awake. Any tension in my knees melted away completely.

A cold but strangely warm swim at the same time.

The rest of the day was spent playing cards, reading and generally resting. Even food shopping had to be carefully planned around our hike – we’d checked the opening times while sitting on the rock itself, and sure enough, was closed on Sunday.

Monday we went to Gamle Stavanger, the old town by the harbour. After the war, many of the wooden houses here were set to be demolished, but instead they were saved and moved into the street where they now stand together. The history of these houses is fascinating – they were designed so they could be effectively flat packed and transported when people moved. Now they make for a beautiful stroll – rows of white-painted cottages with flowers in the windows and cobbled paths underfoot.

The old wooden houses now carefully preserved – Stavanger

From there it was only a few steps to the harbour. Fishing boats, ferries and cruise ships all jostle for space, and the cafés spill out onto the waterfront. It’s the kind of place where you could sit for hours just watching the world go by.

Finally we wandered around the town to look at some of the street art – bold splashes of colour tucked between buildings and across unexpected walls.