Today really felt like we were heading into the wild north-west of Scotland.
As we travelled along the main A-road, cattle grids became a regular feature. Every few miles there seemed to be another one. It’s one of those little things that reminds you you’ve reached a very different part of the country. Instead of miles of fencing, the cattle grids allow sheep and cattle to roam freely while the traffic carries on.
Most of the roads were single track too. It soon becomes second nature to keep an eye out for passing places and to give a friendly wave as other drivers let you through. Everyone seems to have the same attitude – take your time, be patient and enjoy the journey. Out here, the road is as much a part of the adventure as the destination.
And then there were the views. Around almost every bend was another reason to slow down. Mountains, lochs, rugged cliffs and empty beaches appeared one after another. We found ourselves saying “wow” more times than we could count. No photograph quite captures the scale of it. It’s one of those places you simply have to experience for yourself.

Our route today took us to Ardmair, where we pitched up for the night and made the most of the sunshine. Yes, sunshine and warmth really do go together in Scotland! The temperature reached a very pleasant 22C, making it the perfect excuse to sit outside, relax and enjoy the view.
As the evening drew in, we settled back and watched the sunset through the motorhome window. As I’m writing this in July, the sun doesn’t set until around 10.30pm, and even then the display wasn’t over. For the next hour the sky changed from pink to purple and then to deep orange before the colours finally faded. I think I was fast asleep long before nature had finished putting on its show.
I did wake briefly during the night and was amazed to find it wasn’t properly dark. Instead, everything was bathed in a soft twilight that lasted until dawn. Living in an area with so much light pollution, it was a strange experience. Even without streetlights, I could make out more of the landscape than I often can at home. It was peaceful, calm and a lovely way to end another day on the NC500.

Miles covered today: 90
NC500 completed so far: Approximately 355 of 516 miles.
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